The Gates
On the map of Florence that shows the city in schematic, idealised form, Leonardo indicates by name only 10 of the gates found in the city's second circle of walls, begun in 1284. He moves San Miniato and San Giorgio backward, and ends by indicating Porta San Pier Gattolini ("Ghattolini"), today's Porta Romana, in an erroneous position, coinciding with that of Porta di Camaldoli, situated today on the avenues at the level of Piazza Torquato Tasso. He omits not only Porta di Camaldoli, also known as Porta Volterrana, but also Porta dei Servi (now destroyed, it stood at what is today Piazza Isidoro del Lungo and facilitated the access of the faithful to the church of Santissima Annunziata), Porta La Croce (or Porta di Sant’Ambrogio, in what is now Piazza Beccaria) and Porta Guelfa (now destroyed, it was situated at the level of today's Via Ghibellina).
He takes no account of the sidegates that flanked Porta al Prato, although he studies the course of the Mugnone river that flowed beside it (obviously, prior to its deviation beyond the sixteenth-century Fortezza da Basso) and the "Sardigna", where the carcasses of animals were dumped (today in proximity to the Comunale Theatre).
Left bank of the Arno
Clockwise, starting from the course of the Arno, upstream of Florence, Leonardo indicates on RLW 12681, dating from around 1515, on the left bank of the Arno:
"S. Nicholò": Porta San Niccolò
Built around 1324, attributed also to Andrea Orcagna; still existing today in Piazza Poggi, at the foot of the nineteenth-century ramps that climb up the hill to Piazzale Michelangelo. It is the highest gate (45 meters), not having been lowered ("scapitozzata", or beheaded) in the 16th century.
Leonardo recalls it again around 1504 in the Codex Arundel: «The Casacce wall straightens out at the San Nicolò Gate».
"Sanminiato": Porta San Miniato
Built prior to 1324 in the circle of walls dating from 1258, still existing at the foot of Via Monte alle Croci. Leonardo shifts it to the right.
"Giorgo": Porta San Giorgio
Built with the sixth circle of walls in 1324, according to a project attributed to Andrea Orcagna; still existing, between Forte Belvedere and the Bastione Bardini.
Leonardo indicates it in the position of today's Porta Romana.
"Ghattolini": Porta Romana ("Porta Ghattolini", known in the past as Porta di San Pietro Gattuari or Porta a San Pier Gattolino)
Built around 1328, in only four years, to the design of Jacopo Orcagna, it is the largest of those still existing, even though the foregate was demolished on the occasion of the entry of Pope Leo X Medici in 1515. The gate stands at the end of Via Romana, in proximity to the Convento della Calza. Leonardo indicates it in the position of Porta di Camaldoli (or Porta Volterrana).
"San Frediano": Porta San Frediano
Built in 1324, attributed to Andrea Pisano, also known as "della Verzaia" for the vegetable gardens outside the gate; still existing today. Just above it is a circle without name that might indicate the Torrino di Santa Rosa.
Right bank of the Arno
On the right bank of the Arno Leonardo mentions:
"Porta" [gate] (written by Leonardo under Ponte alla Carraia): Postierla [postern] del Prato or Porticciola [little gate] delle Mulina or del Prato d’Ognissanti.
Destroyed, it was located in the vicinity of the Pescaia di Santa Rosa and Ponte alla Carraia, where the United States Consulate now stands.
"Prato": Porta a Prato
This gate, still existing, was built around 1285, and lowered in height in 1526, to be less exposed to artillery attacks. It takes its name from the broad plaza before it, called Il Prato [the meadow] or "della Porta al Prato", which was not paved in the past and was used for the weekly cattle market.
Leonardo sketches the course of the Mugnone that runs along the walls before flowing into the Arno, in front of Porta San Frediano.
"Faenza": Porta Faenza
This gate formed part of the last circle of walls dating from the 13th century. It still stands today at the end of Via Faenza, so called from the name of the nearby convent of the Faenza Nuns. Between 1534 and 1537 it was incapsulated in the donjon of the present-day Fortezza da Basso, designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger with an extraordinary plastic effect deriving from a pattern of alternating hemispherical and diamond-shaped ashlars.
"Ghallo": Porta San Gallo
Beside the Church and Hospital of San Gallo, built in 1284, attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio. The tower was higher (35 metres), but was lowered in the 16th century to conform to the height of the other gates. It stands in the centre of Piazza della Libertà, facing the Arch of Triumph.
"Pinti": Porta Fiesolana or a Pinti
This name is probably derived from "pentiti", the penitents who withdrew into the nearby monastery outside the walls.
Now destroyed, it stood in today's Piazza Donatello, at the beginning of Borgo Pinti.
"Giusstitia": Porta della Giustizia (or Torre Reale)
Built in 1316, at the time of King Robert of Naples, called "della Giustizia" [gate of justice] because those condemned to death passed through it, along Via de’ Malcontenti, on their way to the execution place outside the gate. It was then called "della Zecca Vecchia" [of the Old Mint] when the Florentine Mint was moved there from back of the Loggia della Signoria.
Now destroyed, it stood near the surviving tower called Torre della Zecca.
Leonardo also mentions the "Muro d’Arno" [Arno wall] and the "Pescaia della Giustizia" [justice weir] in Ms. L and in the Codex Leicester (13A–13r). Notable also is the memorandum in Madrid Ms. II: «Tomorrow morning look at the little fir trees of Giustizia, whether they are good for that purpose».
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Texts by Alessandro Vezzosi, in collaboration with Agnese Sabato
English translation by Catherine Frost
Last update 01/feb/2008


