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Livorno and surroundings

portrait of Leonardo

His interest in the sea and in ports had brought Leonardo to Livorno already prior to 1480. His studies were focused, in particular, on the projects for deviating the Arno upstream of Pisa, toward the Stagno di Livorno (culminating in 1503-1504), and on the fortifications of Piombino (around 1502 for Cesare Borgia, in 1504 for Jacopo IV Appiani).

The care taken by Beonardo in the surveys of this territory is especially apparent on map RLW 12683 and on folios 52v-53r of Madrid Ms. II.

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Bibbona

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of "Bib[b]ona".

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Bolgheri

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of "Borgeri", today's Bolgheri in the Commune of Castagneto Carducci.

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Campiglia

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of "Campiglia" (today's Campiglia Marittima), a military and administrative center of the medieval Upper Maremma, first siding with Pisa and then under Florentine domination.

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Casale Marittimo

Leonardo represents and indicates "Casale", today's Casale Marittimo.

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Castagneto

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of "Castagneto" (today's Castagneto Carducci), the domain of the Gherardesca Counts.

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Castell'Anselmo

Leonardo indicates by "Castello Anselmo" the ancient fortification in the Commune of Collesalvetti.

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Castelnuovo della Misericordia

Leonardo indicates "Castel Novo": this is Castenuovo della Misericordia in the Commune of Rosignano Marittimo.

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Donoratico

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of "Donoraticho" today a part of Castagneto Carducci.

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Livorno

On map RLW 12683, Leonardo furnishes an aesthetically exceptional representation of Livorno with its port, its tower and its lighthouse. On map RLW 12279 he notes: "26 miles along the Arno from Caprona to Livorno and 12 through the marshes...". On folio 305r of the Codex Atlanticus he indicates only "Livorno", "tower" and "'lighthouse". On map RLW 12277 he calls Livorno a "Pisan port". It may be that the sketch on f. 147 a-r (ex 52 r-b) of the Codex Atlanticus is a recollection of the tower in the sea.

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Malandrone

Leonardo indicates and draws "Malandrone", now in the Commune of Rosignano Marittimo.

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Monte Nero (Cappellina)

Leonardo indicates by "Capellina" the sanctuary of the Madonna di Monte Nero on map RLW 12683 and by "Monte Nero" on folio 305r of the Codex Atlanticus.

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Montescudaio

Leonardo indicates and represents Montescudaio in a strategic position at the entrance to Val di Cecina.

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Nugola

Leonardo represents and indicates the locality of Nugola in the Commune of Collesalvetti.

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Riparbella

Leonardo represents and indicates "Ripalbello", today's Riparbella.

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Rosignano Marittimo

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Rosignano with its towers, today's Rosignano Marittimo.

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San Vincenzo

Leonardo shows the coastal tower of S. Vincenzo as reference to the defensive system of the Livorno coastline. Near this Pisan tower, the Florentines defeated the allies of Pisa in 1505.

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Santa Maria

Leonardo draws, without indicating its name, the church of S. Maria della Pietà, of exceptional Renaissance architecture in the shape of a Greek cross built in the second half of the 15th century by Vittorio Ghiberti and Ranieri di Tripalle, at the foot of the hill of Bibbona.

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Sassetta

Leonardo represents and indicates the medieval stronghold of Sassetta.

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Segalari

Leonardo indicates the ancient curte of Segalare, between Suvereto, Castagneto and Guardistallo.

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Stagno

Leonardo represents and indicates the marshlands of the Stagno between Pisa and Livorno, where he planned to deviate the water from the Arno. Several canals already flowed into it. "Stagno" is also found on map RLW 12277; indicated as "Ponte a Stagno" on folio 305r of the Codex Atlanticus and only localised but without place name on folios 52v-53r of Madrid Ms. II.

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Suvereto

Leonardo represents and indicates "Sugereto", today's Suvereto, one of the towns in the Val di Cornia.

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Vada

Leonardo represents and indicates the tower of Vada in a strategic position as regards the mouth of the Cecina river.

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Texts by Alessandro Vezzosi, in collaboration with Agnese Sabato

English translation by Catherine Frost

Last update 05/mar/2008