The Middle Valdarno
This broad territory traversed by the Arno river was systematically scoured by Leonardo along the routes between Florence, Vinci, Empoli and Pisa. His reconnaissance was not limited to a route running along the two banks of the river, but was extended to the surrounding hills, all accurately indicated and measured on numerous maps (RLW 12277, RLW 12278, RLW 12685, Madrid II: ff. 22v-23r, 53r, 2r, 15r, 16r).
This route connects without a break to those routes and geographic areas that, proceeding along the Arno from upstream to downstream, are indicated on maps RLW12278 and RLW12685 as "Florence and surroundings", "Prato-Pistoia", "Val di Pesa and Val di Greve", "Montalbano", "Valdelsa", "Volterrano and Valdera", "Pisa and surroundings".
Leonardo traversed these places innumerable times, from childhood to his second Florentine period (1508), and probably again at the time of his departure for France (1516). In addition, this territory was at the centre of his studies pertinent to the projects for deviating the Arno: for the Florence Canal (at least from 1473 to 1513) and for the Canal leading to the Stagno di Livorno (around 1503-1504).
Arno
Leonardo draws the entire course of the Arno on two maps: RLW 12277, with indication and denomination of its main tributaries; and the Codex Atlanticus, f. 910r, without hydrographic denominations and with only 12 Casentino place names. These maps are remarkable for their precision and for their aesthetic quality. In them Leonardo re-elaborated the traditional layout of the maps by Pietro del Massaio datable between 1456 and 1472.
Leonardo also represents in detail three large areas in the Arno Valley on maps RLW 12278 (preceded by RLW 12682), 12683 (preceded in part by folio 305r in the Codex Atlanticus and appearing in more detail on folios 52v-53r of Madrid Ms. II) and 12685 (which coincides in part with folios 22v-23r of Madrid Ms. II and with RLW 12279). The Arno River starts in the Commune of Stia in Casentino, on the south side of Monte Falterona, in the Tuscan-Romagnolo Apennines, at Capo d'Arno (called the Lake of Idols for the finding there of Etruscan bronze votive statuettes) at an altitude of 1,385 m above sea level.
With a course of 241 km, it traverses, or delimits, the territory of 48 communes in the 4 provinces of Arezzo (Arezzo, Bibbiena, Capolona, Castel Focognano, Castel San Niccolò, Chiusi della Verna, Civitella Val di Chiana, Laterina, Montevarchi, Ortignano Raggiolo, Pergine Valdarno, Poppi, Pratovecchio, San Giovanni Valdarno, Stia, Subbiano, Terranuova Bracciolini), Florence (Bagno a Ripoli, Capraia and Limite, Cerreto Guidi, Empoli, Fiesole, Figline Valdarno, Florence, Fucecchio, Incisa Val d'Arno, Lastra a Signa, Londa, Montelupo Fiorentino, Pelago, Pontassieve, Reggello, Rignano sull'Arno, Scandicci, Signa, Vinci), Prato (Carmignano) and Pisa (Calcinaia, Cascina, Castelfranco di Sotto, Montopoli Val d'Arno, Pisa, Pontedera, San Giuliano Terme, San Miniato, Santa Croce sull'Arno, Santa Maria a Monte, Vicopisano). Its water basin includes 166 communes (160 of them Tuscan)
Balconevisi
By 'Valcollevisi', Leonardo indicates the stronghold of Balconevisi, in the Commune of San Miniato.
Bucciano
Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Bucciano, in the Commune of San Miniato.
Canneto
By 'Caneto' Leonardo indicates the stronghold of Canneto, in the Commune of San Miniato.
Cerreto Guidi
Cerreto is important in relation to Leonardo for at least six reasons: the legend that his mother was born in the stronghold of Cerreto, in a house situated on the ancient ramp of stairs that led to the Pieve di San Leonardo; the property documented as having been owned by his father Ser Piero at San Zio di Cerreto Guidi; the double stairway of the Medicean Villa, which recalls those found in Leonardo's Ms. B; its location close to Vinci, dominating the thoroughfares of communication between the Arno and the Padule di Fucecchio, between the course of the Vincio and that of the Streda; its historic connections with Vinci, from the time of the Guidi Counts (11th century) to the Podesterate of Vinci and Cerreto; the Della Robbia baptistery in the Pieve di San Leonardo, with a formella inspired by Leonardo's drawing dated 1473 and by the "Baptism" in the Uffizi. We find Cerreto not only on map RLW 12685, but also on 3 folios in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 2r, 3r, 23r): on the route from Vinci to Vicopisano, in the surveys and the diagram of a project for deviating the Arno through Prato and Pistoia.
Egola
By 'Evola', Leonardo indicates, on maps RLW 12278 and RLW 12277, the course of the Egola, which flows through the Communes of Fucecchio, Gambassi Terme, Montaione, and San Miniato. Coordinates taken in the Boscotondo locality.
Empoli
A centre of art, commerce and communication, Empoli was important for Leonardo's formation. He represents and indicates the fortified city on maps RLW 12278 and 12685. He also mentions it in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 2r, 16r, 23r) in connection with the project for deviating the Arno; on the route from Florence to Pisa, and in particular from Empoli to Cascina, with the relevant distances. In the Collegiate and its Museum are important works by Masolino, Rossellino, Mino da Fiesole, Filippo Lippi, Botticini and Andrea Della Robbia.
Empoli
A centre of art, commerce and communication, Empoli was important for Leonardo's formation. He represents and indicates the fortified city on maps RLW 12278 and 12685. He also mentions it in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 2r, 16r, 23r) in connection with the project for deviating the Arno; on the route from Florence to Pisa, and in particular from Empoli to Cascina, with the relevant distances. In the Collegiate and its Museum are important works by Masolino, Rossellino, Mino da Fiesole, Filippo Lippi, Botticini and Andrea Della Robbia.
Fucecchio
A stronghold on the ancient Via Francigena, Fucecchio was a strategic point in the medieval road system, and for crossing the Arno in particular. It was located in proximity to the confluence of the waters of the Padule di Fucecchio (and thus to Leonardo's Arno Canal project) with the navigable Arno. Leonardo represents and mentions it on maps RLW 12685, 12277, 12279 and on three folios in Madrid Ms. II (1r, 2r, 23r).
Granaiolo
Leonardo represents and indicates the castle of Granaiolo, in the Commune of Empoli, at the heart of the Val d'Elsa. Its name reveals its characteristic of granary for the Florentine Republic.
Lastra a Signa
By "La Lasstra" Leonardo indicates Lastra a Signa, a centre of roadways as well as cultural and commercial activity in the Arno Valley. It is located on the route from Florence to Empoli, almost at the height of Ponte a Signa, the bridge that in the past joined the left bank of the Arno to the stronghold of Signa, in proximity to the weir and the river port called Porto di Mezzo, upstream of Golfolina. Leonardo indicates "La Lastra" on the maps and calculations for deviating the Arno (RLW 12685 and Madrid Ms. II, ff. 7r, 15r, 16r; on f. 23r he shows it, instead, without naming it).
Malmantile
Leonardo represents and indicates Malmantile on maps RLW 12278, 12685, 12279, in Madrid Ms. II (f. 23r); he also mentions it in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 3r, 16r). The stronghold, whose construction was probably supervised by Brunelleschi, is located in the Commune of Lastra a Signa, along one of the roads that led from Florence to Montelupo Fiorentino and then to Vinci. A tradition no longer accredited (in spite of the presence of a church dedicated to Our Lady of the Snow) identified it as the stronghold appearing in Leonardo's drawing dated "the day of Our Lady of the Snow, 5 August 1473".
Malmantile
Leonardo represents and indicates Malmantile on maps RLW 12278, 12685, 12279, in Madrid Ms. II (f. 23r); he also mentions it in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 3r, 16r). The stronghold, whose construction was probably supervised by Brunelleschi, is located in the Commune of Lastra a Signa, along one of the roads that led from Florence to Montelupo Fiorentino and then to Vinci. A tradition no longer accredited (in spite of the presence of a church dedicated to Our Lady of the Snow) identified it as the stronghold appearing in Leonardo's drawing dated "the day of Our Lady of the Snow, 5 August 1473".
Marti
Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Marti, in the Commune of Montopoli in Val d'Arno.
Montebicchieri
By 'Bichieri', Leonardo indicates the stronghold of Montebicchieri, in the Commune of San Miniato.
Montelupo Fiorentino
Leonardo is interested in Montelupo for at least four reasons: as a production centre of artistic ceramics (with important masters and prominent clients), for its thoroughfares of communication, for his studies on the Arno valley and the Val di Pesa, and for his observations on the conformation of the terrain.
On the maps for deviating the Arno into the Pistoia Canal, around 1503, he draws it on RLW 12685; indicates it on maps RLW 12278 and 12279, and in Madrid Ms. II (folios 3r, 15r, 16r, 23r). Leonardo was well acquainted with the kilns of Montelupo (15 kilometres from Vinci), as is confirmed by the itinerary on folio 15r of Madrid Ms. II from Signa to "Monisterio, Pescaia, Fornaci, Montelupo". This is an annotation dating from the years in which "moresca" (Moorish) majolica decorated with intertwined patterns resembling the "Vincian knots" was produced at Montelupo.
Other mentions of the town are found in the Codex Atlanticus, on folio 201v, dating from 1505-1506: "How the beds of river rise with the passage of tme toward the surface of the water, as shown by the Arno that runs from Monte Lupo down, where once there was sea, and before it did not run ". And in the Codex Leicester (c. 1506-1508), on folio 6A-31v: "... and the Arno is similar, at Monte Albano, around Monte Lupo and Capraia, where the great boulders and are all made of agglomerated pebbles, of different stones and colours"; and on folio 8B-8v: "Near where the rivers fell tino the sea at great depth, like the Arno, which fell at Golfolina near Monte Lupo, and left there the pebbles which, as can still be seen, have formed a single agglomeration made up of stones of various countries, kinds, colours and degrees of hardness...".
Montelupo Fiorentino
Leonardo is interested in Montelupo for at least four reasons: as a production centre of artistic ceramics (with important masters and prominent clients), for its thoroughfares of communication, for his studies on the Arno valley and the Val di Pesa, and for his observations on the conformation of the terrain.
On the maps for deviating the Arno into the Pistoia Canal, around 1503, he draws it on RLW 12685; indicates it on maps RLW 12278 and 12279, and in Madrid Ms. II (folios 3r, 15r, 16r, 23r). Leonardo was well acquainted with the kilns of Montelupo (15 kilometres from Vinci), as is confirmed by the itinerary on folio 15r of Madrid Ms. II from Signa to "Monisterio, Pescaia, Fornaci, Montelupo". This is an annotation dating from the years in which "moresca" (Moorish) majolica decorated with intertwined patterns resembling the "Vincian knots" was produced at Montelupo.
Other mentions of the town are found in the Codex Atlanticus, on folio 201v, dating from 1505-1506: "How the beds of river rise with the passage of tme toward the surface of the water, as shown by the Arno that runs from Monte Lupo down, where once there was sea, and before it did not run ". And in the Codex Leicester (c. 1506-1508), on folio 6A-31v: "... and the Arno is similar, at Monte Albano, around Monte Lupo and Capraia, where the great boulders and are all made of agglomerated pebbles, of different stones and colours"; and on folio 8B-8v: "Near where the rivers fell tino the sea at great depth, like the Arno, which fell at Golfolina near Monte Lupo, and left there the pebbles which, as can still be seen, have formed a single agglomeration made up of stones of various countries, kinds, colours and degrees of hardness...".
Monterappoli
Leonardo represents and indicates the castle of Monterappoli, in the Commune of Empoli, to which - already in the Middle Ages - it was united along with that of Pontorme.
Montescalari
Leonardo represents and indicates Montescalari, the abbey that constituted a reference point in Val d'Ema. According to tradition, on October 21, 1474 Andrea del Verrocchio cast the bell for the tower, commissioned by the Abbot Don Isidoro; it was adorned with bas-relief sculpture, with representations of the 'Virgin and Child' and of San Giovanni Gualberto, as well as the heraldic arms of the Abbey, and was blessed by the name of Santa Brigida. In 1775 the abbey was suppressed and the bell, was sold and melted down for its metal.
Montopoli
By "Monte Topoli", Leonardo indicates the stronghold of Montopoli, long the seat of the Valdarno vicariate, on map RLW 12683 and mentions it in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 2r, 3r).
Ponte a Cappiano
Leonardo draws with striking synthesis Ponte a Cappiano (in the Commune of Fucecchio) on map RLW 12685, as reference point for the hydrology of the Padule di Fucecchio and then for his project for the Arno Canal passing through Prato, Pistoia and Serravalle.
Pontorme
By 'Pontormo', Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Pontorme, on maps RLW 12278 and RLW 12685, in the Commune and at the gates of Empoli, on the road to Montelupo. It was a centre of ceramics production, as well as the birthplace of Pontormo.
Pontorme
By 'Pontormo', Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Pontorme, on maps RLW 12278 and RLW 12685, in the Commune and at the gates of Empoli, on the road to Montelupo. It was a centre of ceramics production, as well as the birthplace of Pontormo.
San Miniato
By 'San Miniato al Tedessco', Leonardo indicates, on map RLW 12278, the imperial city of San Miniato. A fortification of primary administrative, strategic and cultural importance, also for controlling the roads and rivers (Via Francigena and Via Pisana, Valdarno and Val d'Elsa), it was rebuilt by Federico II around 1226. Leonardo mentions San Miniato as an area where fossil seashells are found in the Codex Leicester (f. 9A-9r); in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 2r, 16r) the place, indicated on the road connecting Empoli and Pisa, is also accompanied by the distances from these centres.
Famous is the meeting between Michelangelo and Sebastiano del Piombo in this city, which also excercised authority as vicariate over Vinci
San Quintino
By 'San Gionettino', Leonardo indicates the stronghold of San Quintino, in the Commune of San Miniato.
San Romano
Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of San Romano, in the Commune of Montopoli in Val d'Arno, on map RLW 12683 and mentions it also in Madrid Ms. II (f. 16r, as "Torre a San Romano" and f. 22v).
Santa Croce
On the right bank of the Arno, Leonardo represents the stronghold of Santa Croce sull'Arno without indicating its name. He thus marks the beginning of the Pisan territory subject of his reconnoitering. Santa Croce appears also on other Leonardo folios: in Madrid Ms. II (ff. 2r, 3r, 22v-23r) and on map RLW 12279 .
Signa
Signa was a centre of art, crafts and communication occupying a strategic position near the Ombrone Pistoiese dominating the confluence of the Bisenzio with the Arno, at the height of the river port - where goods from Pisa arrived - and the bridge over which the river could be crossed. Leonardo represents it on map RLW 12685 and mentions it in other studies on the course of the Arno and for its deviation, in the itinerary between Florence and Empoli-Pisa (RLW 12279, the Codex Atlanticus and Madrid Ms. II).
Toiano
Leonardo represents and indicates Toiano, in the Commune of Palaia.
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Texts by Alessandro Vezzosi, in collaboration with Agnese Sabato
English translation by Catherine Frost
Last update 05/mar/2008