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Volterrano

portrait of Leonardo

On maps RLW 12277, RLW 12278 and RLW 12683, great importance is conferred on the city of Volterra, located between Val di Cecina and Valdera; a center of historic-artistic interest, Volterra had in fact, since antiquity, played an important strategic role, both for its position within the Tuscan system of roadways and for the mining resources in its territory. Evidently, Leonardo traversed its territory while serving under Cesare Borgia and at the time of the war waged by Florence against Pisa (around 1503), but conducting non-systematic reconnaissance justified by his fragmented knowledge of the area.

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Berignone

Leonardo represents and indicates the fortified site of Berignone, a place name also used to indicate the forest that surrounds the town. The locality is also known as the 'Bishops' Castle' since it was the fortress and residence of the bishops of Volterrano, who in the 13th century minted coins there with silver from the mines of Montieri. Now in ruins, the fortress is situated on a rocky spur at the confluence of the Botro a Rio with the Sellate torrent.

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Castelnuovo di Val di Cecina

Leonardo represents and indicates, on maps RLW 12278 and 12683, Castelnuovo Val di Cecina, a fortification of notable importance for its dominant position on the Pavone torrent.

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Castelnuovo Val di Cecina

Leonardo represents and indicates Castelnuovo Val di Cecina on maps RLW 12278 and 12683.

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Cecina

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Gello

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Gello, now in the Commune of Montecatini Val di Cecina.

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Lari

Leonardo represents the medieval castle of Lari, predecessor of the sixteenth-century Medicean fortress. The same locality is found again on folio 110 r-a of the Codex Atlanticus.

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Leccia

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Leccia, in the Commune of Castelnuovo of Val di Cecina.

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Mensano

The stronghold of Mensano (in the Commune of Casole d'Elsa), a settlement of notable importance already in Etruscan and Roman times, flourished especially in the Middle Ages, thanks also to its privileged position on the system of roadways that, traversing the valley of the Elsa, led to Arezzo and Chiusi. The feud of the Bishop of Volterra, it passed under the dominion of Siena in the first half of the 13th century.

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Monte Voltraio

By 'Feltraio', Leonardo indicates Voltraio, mountain and stronghold, in the Commune of Volterra.

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Montecastelli

Leonardo represents and indicates on map RLW 12683 and, twice (probably by mistake), on map RLW 12278, Montecastelli (in the Commune of Castelnuovo Val di Cecina), situated in a strategic position overlooking the Valle del Pavone with the imposing structure of the medieval tower and the Romanesque church of Santi Filippo e Giacomo.

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Montecastelli

Leonardo represents and indicates on map RLW 12683 and, twice (probably by mistake), on map RLW 12278, Montecastelli (in the Commune of Castelnuovo Val di Cecina), situated in a strategic position overlooking the Valle del Pavone with the imposing structure of the medieval tower and the Romanesque church of Santi Filippo e Giacomo.

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Montecatini Val di Cecina

Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Montecatini Val di Cecina.

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Montecerboli

Leonardo represents and indicates the fortress of Montecerboli, in the Commune of Pomarance, situated atop a little hill between the Massa road and the Possera torrent.

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Monteforcoli

Leonardo indicates the position of Monteforcoli, now in Palaia.

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Montegemoli

Leonardo represents and indicates "Montegenmoli", now in the Commune of Pomarance.

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Montemiccioli

By 'Monte Mictoli', Leonardo indicates the stronghold of Montemiccioli, a remote boundary between Volterra and Val d'Elsa.

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Pastina

Leonardo represents and indicates the locality of Pastina, in the Commune of Santa Luce.

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Pavone

Leonardo draws, on maps RLW 12278 and RLW 12277, the Pavone torrent, which flows through the Communes of Massa Marittima, Monterotondo Marittimo, Montieri, Castelnuovo di Val di Cecina, Pomarance, Casole d'Elsa, and Radicondoli. The coordinates were taken at Cerbaiola, near the point of confluence with the Cecina.

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Pietracassia, rocca

Leonardo describes the articulation of the fortifications of the Pietracassia fort, in the Commune of Lajatico.

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Pomaia

Leonardo represents the locality di Pomaia, in the Commune of Santa Luce.

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Pomarance

Leonardo represents and indicates the castle of "Le Pomerance", with wall and towers, today's Pomarance.

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Possera

Leonardo draws, on maps RLW 12278 and RLW 12277, the course of the torrent Possera, the left tributary of the Cecina, which flows through the Communes of Castelnuovo Val di Cecina, Pomarance, and Volterra. Coordinates taken in the Commune of Pomarance, at the confluence with the Cecina.

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Querceto

Leonardo represents and indicates Querceto, now in the Commune of Montecatini Val di Cecina.

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San Ruffino

By "Serafino" Leonardo indicates the locality of San Ruffino in the Commune of Lari.

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Sasso Pisano

By 'El Sasso di Volterra', Leonardo indicates the Lombard stronghold of Sasso Pisano, in the Commune of Castelnuovo di Val di Cecina.

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Sellate

Leonardo draws, on maps RLW 12278 and RLW 12277, the course of the Sellate torrent, which flows through the Communes of Volterra and Casole d'Elsa. The coordinates were taken in the Monteguidi locality (Casole d'Elsa).

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Sillano

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Sillano, rocca di

In the Commune of Pomarance, Leonardo represents and indicates the stronghold of Sillano with two belts of walls and a tower at the centre, on map RLW 12683; and in more schematic manner, but still circular, on map RLW 12278. The imposing medieval fortification, standing guard over the valleys of the Possera and the Pavone, is today in ruins.

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Soiana

Leonardo represents and indicates the locality of Soiana, now in the Commune of Terricciola.

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Volterra

Leonardo draws in detail, from different angles and assembly reconstructions, the Etruscan city of Volterra, on maps RLW 12683 (from the east) and 12278, and mentions its strategic importance in relation to the Val di Cecina and the Valdera on the hydrographic map RLW 12277. He also notes, in Madrid Ms. II (f. 3r), the observations made by him to find the geographical positions of the localities referred to, on the roads that from Montalbano run toward the Valdarno, the Monti Pisani and San Gimignano. Historically, the territory of Volterra was of interest to both Pisa and Florence, also for its mining resources.

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Volterra

Leonardo draws in detail, from different angles and assembly reconstructions, the Etruscan city of Volterra, on maps RLW 12683 (from the east) and 12278, and mentions its strategic importance in relation to the Val di Cecina and the Valdera on the hydrographic map RLW 12277. He also notes, in Madrid Ms. II (f. 3r), the observations made by him to find the geographical positions of the localities referred to, on the roads that from Montalbano run toward the Valdarno, the Monti Pisani and San Gimignano. Historically, the territory of Volterra was of interest to both Pisa and Florence, also for its mining resources.

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Texts by Alessandro Vezzosi, in collaboration with Agnese Sabato

English translation by Catherine Frost

Last update 05/mar/2008